Tying a belay device

Tie the loaded rope off at the belay device: While maintaining the brake position, feed a bight of rope through the locking carabiner that the belay device is attached to. A pear-shaped carabiner makes this process easier. Next, tie the loaded strand of the bight securely against the belay device using a half hitch. The knot is

now “slippery”, meaning that the bight can easily be pulled out. For security, a slippery tie-off should always be backed up. Finish by tying an overhand knot (with the double strand) securely against the half hitch