Beit Aryeh
TheBeit Aryeh crag is located east to the town of Beit Aryeh and above Wadi Shiloh.It is a single pitch crag, with some 40 routes, most of them bolted And a few trad and top-rope routes. The rock is Turonic limestone and is pretty solid. it is east facing, and is shaded from 10:00-11:00 in winter, and from 12:00-13:00 in summer.
Most routes have two bolts and a chain at the top.
south from the main climbing area there's another tiny crag nicknamed "the Boulder". It is a 6m rockface, with some extra short bolted routes, with no belay stances at the top. there are a few threads. It is not worth your time and is only mentioned here for completeness...
תוכן עניינים
History
Climbing in Beit Aryeh started in the early 1990's. The local ranger, himself a resident of Beit Aryeh, along with the Israel Climbing Club (formerly the Israeli Alpine Club) approved the crag for climbing on two conditions:
- No rappeling groups.
- No climbing on the other side, NE to the main crag where some eagles occasionally nest.
Since climbers hate having other people rappel on top of them, and hate even more long approaches, those conditions were fulfilled automatically.
During the first years the crag was very popular, routes were oppened, cleaned and bolted. In 2001, when the first Intifada started, and after a few incidents (shooting on passing cars etc.) on the road leading to Beit Aryeh, the climbers deserted the site and switched to Shilat.
Around 2007 Beit Aryeh got popular again. a whole new sector was bolted (the Ledge) and climbers came back. Since a tall wire fence was built in the meantime, access was limited. After disscutions with the town's chief of security a gate was set, and 10 keys were made, which are kept at the guard's cabin at the entrance to the town. Climbers can get one in exchange to an id or a driver's license.
Getting there
On rd 444, between Rosh Ha-ain and Shoham, turn left to rd 465 to Beit Aryeh.
Enter Beit Aryeh itself, turn right at the second junction. After 100m there's a playground on the right. Turn there, go past the roundabout and continue down to the T junction.
Right on the T junction will take you to the boulder. Left will take you on a paved road, turning into a dirt road. After 1km you can see a gate. Park there and go down the path. You can go around the crag from both sides. There is also a grade 4 down climbing option, that's shorter. This option is not reccomended if you're not familiar with it. It had seen some accidents.
Gear
The longest routes are 25m, so a 50m rope is just enough for them, but is definitely sufficient for the rest. For the sport routes, 14 runners are fine. for the trad routes nuts and tricams will do the trick.
Cams are not recommended as the crag is of limestone and coms might not get enough grab.
Routes
Routes are enummerated right to left
The Ledge
This sector is relatively new, and was developed from 2006. In order to reach it, you need to go North scramble upwards from the main sector. The routes are not as long, aboout 17m. The first and last routes start below the ledge itself, and are a bit longer.
The first route is right to the Ledge, towards the cave.
route # 1 - Super Daddy - 6a
The next routes start on the ledge.
route # 2 - ס.מ.כ. - 5+
route # 3 - דרדסבא זה עוד רחוק? - 6c
route # 4 - Maya the bee - 6c
route # 5 - Quantumleap - 6c (direct) or 6b (in the crack on the left)
route # 6 - king's highway - 6c
route # 7 - strong to the left - 6b
route # 8 - גינת הטרמיקים - 6a
The last two routes star below the ledge, on the left.
route # 9 - יהודה ושומרון אקספרס - 6 a+
route # 10 - Hare Krishna - 6a
Main sector - Prison #4
Right of the Roof
route # 11 - אסור לעצבן את אמא - 6b+
route # 12 - Prison #4 - 6a+
route # 13 - Yair's Stairs - 6b
route # 14 - ללא שם - 5+ (trad)
The Roof
route # 15 - Midlife - 6c
route # 16 - Pitons - 6c (trad)
route # 17 - Keyhole - 6c+
route # 18 - The snake - 6b+
route # 19 - no name - 5 (trad)
Left of The Roof
route # 20 - The Piece - 6a
The next three routes share a common start
route # 21 - Picadilly - 6b
route # 22 - Benzamite sandwitch - 6c
route # 23 - take it or leave it - 7b+
route # 24 - Circumcission - 6c
route # 25 - no name - 5 (trad)
route # 26 - Hitchcock - 6c (only the top part is bolted)
The next two routes share the first two bolts
route # 27 - 5c
route # 28 - 6b+
The left sector
This area is further to the left, the routes start higher up and are shorter - 4-5 bolts each.
route # 29 - call of the crow - 7a
route # 30 - On shawn - 6c
route # 31 - דרך המלך - 5c
route # 32 - Monte Carlo- 6a
route # 33 - Happy Ending - 6a+
contributions to this page by: : Mica yaniv and others...
