הבדלים בין גרסאות בדף "Beit Aryeh"

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קפיצה אל: ניווט, חיפוש
(דף חדש: TheBeit Aryeh crag is located east to the town of Beit Aryeh and above Wadi Shiloh.It is a single pitch crag, with some 40 routes, most of them bolted And a few trad and ...)
 
שורה 15: שורה 15:
 
During the first years the crag was very popular, routes were oppened, cleaned and bolted. In 2001, when the first Intifada started, and after a few incidents (shooting on passing cars etc.) on the road leading to Beit Aryeh, the climbers deserted the site and switched to [[Shilat]].
 
During the first years the crag was very popular, routes were oppened, cleaned and bolted. In 2001, when the first Intifada started, and after a few incidents (shooting on passing cars etc.) on the road leading to Beit Aryeh, the climbers deserted the site and switched to [[Shilat]].
  
Around 2007 Beit Aryeh got p[opular again. a whole new sector was bolted (the Ledge) and climbers came back. Since a tall wire fence was built in the meantime, access was limited. After disscutions with the town's chief of security a gate was set, and 10 keys were made, which are kept at the guard's cabine at the entrance to the town. Climbers can get one in exchange to an id or a driver's license.  
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Around 2007 Beit Aryeh got popular again. a whole new sector was bolted (the Ledge) and climbers came back. Since a tall wire fence was built in the meantime, access was limited. After disscutions with the town's chief of security a gate was set, and 10 keys were made, which are kept at the guard's cabin at the entrance to the town. Climbers can get one in exchange to an id or a driver's license.  
 
==Getting there==
 
==Getting there==
On rd 444, between Rosh Ha-ain and Shoham, turn left  
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On rd 444, between Rosh Ha-ain and Shoham, turn left to rd 465 to Beit Aryeh.
 
 
  
 
[[תמונה: Bet_Aryeh1.jpg|מרכז|ממוזער|600px|map]]
 
[[תמונה: Bet_Aryeh1.jpg|מרכז|ממוזער|600px|map]]
  
פונים ימינה בפניה השניה, ולאחר כמאה מטרים רואים גן משחקים מימין. פונים שם, עוברים את הכיכר ויורדים בכביש עד לצומת T.
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Enter Beit Aryeh itself, turn right at the second junction. After 100m there's a playground on the right. Turn there, go past the roundabout and continue down to the T junction.
  
אם פונים ימינה בצומת, מגיעים לבולדר לאחר כ-200מ'.
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Right on the T junction will take you to the boulder. Left will take you on a paved road, turning into a dirt road. After 1km you can see a gate. Park there and go down the path. You can go around the crag from both sides. There is also a grade 4 down climbing option, that's shorter. This option is not reccomended if you're not familiar with it. It had seen some accidents.
אפ בצומת פונים שמאלה, נוסעים לאורך הגדר ההיקפית בכביש שהופך לדרך עפר. לאחר כקילומטר אחד מגיעים לשער בגדר, שנמצא ממש מעל המצוק.
 
[[תמונה: Bet_Aryeh2.jpg|מרכז|ממוזער|300px|מפת הגעה בתוך היישוב]]
 
  
את המצוק ניתן לעקוף משמאל או מימין (כ-15דקות הליכה). יש גם "קיצור" שהוא למעשה טיפוס ב[[דירוג|דרגה]] 3 שיורד את המצוק. אם אתם לא מכירים - לא מומלץ, כבר היו שם תאונות.
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==Gear==
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The longest routes are 25m, so a 50m rope is just enough for them, but is definitely sufficient for the rest. For the [[sport routes]], 14 [[runners]] are fine. for the [[trad]] routes [[nuts]] and [[tricams]] will do the trick.  
  
==ציוד==
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[[Cams]] are not recommended as the crag is of limestone and coms might not get enough grab.
המסלולים הארוכים ביותר הם של 25מ', חבל הובלה של 50מ' יספיק להם בקושי, אבל לכל השאר - בקלות. למסלולים הספורטיביים יספיקו 14 [[ראנרים]]. למסלולי הטראד - [[רוקים]] ו[[טריקמים]] בנוסף.
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==Routes==
==המסלולים==
 
 
[[תמונה: Bet_Aryeh_topo.jpg|מרכז|ממוזער|600px|חלוקת האיזורים במצוק של בית אריה]]
 
[[תמונה: Bet_Aryeh_topo.jpg|מרכז|ממוזער|600px|חלוקת האיזורים במצוק של בית אריה]]
'''המסלולים ממוספרים מימין לשמאל'''
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'''Routes are enummerated right to left'''
===המדף===
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===The Ledge===
זהו סקטור חדש יחסית (משנת 2006). כדי להגיע אליו צריך ללכת צפונה מנקודת הירידה התלולה, ואז לטפס אל המדף. המסלולים כאן הם לא כלכך ארוכים - 17מ', מלבד הראשון האחרון, שמתחילים מתחת למדף והם ארוכים קצת יותר.
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This sector is relatively new, and was developed from 2006. In order to reach it, you need to go North scramble upwards from the main sector. The routes are not as long, aboout 17m. The first and last routes start below the ledge itself, and are a bit longer.
  
המסלול הראשון הוא מימין למדף, בירידה לכיוון המערה:
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The first route is right to the Ledge, towards the cave.
  
מסלול 1 - סופר דדי - 6a
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route # 1 - Super Daddy - 6a
  
המסלולים הבאים מתחילים על המדף:
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The next routes start on the ledge.
  
מסלול 2 - ס.מ.כ. - 5+
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route # 2 - ס.מ.כ. - 5+
  
מסלול 3 - דרדסבא זה עוד רחוק? - 6c
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route # 3 - דרדסבא זה עוד רחוק? - 6c
  
מסלול 4 - הדבורה מאיה - 6c
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route # 4 - Maya the bee - 6c
  
מסלול 5 - Quantumleap
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route # 5 - Quantumleap
- 6c (ישר) או 6b (דרך החריץ משמאל)
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- 6c (direct) or 6b (in the crack on the left)
  
מסלול 6 - דרך המלך - 6c
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route # 6 - king's highway - 6c
  
מסלול 7 - חזק שמאלה - 6b
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route # 7 - strong to the left - 6b
  
מסלול 8 - גינת הטרמיקים - 6a
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route # 8 - גינת הטרמיקים - 6a
  
שני המסלולים האחרונים מתחיל מתחת למדף, משמאל.
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The last two routes star below the ledge, on the left.
  
מסלול 9 - יהודה ושומרון אקספרס - 6a+
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route # 9 - יהודה ושומרון אקספרס - 6
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a+
  
מסלול 10 - הארי קרישנה - 6a
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route # 10 - Hare Krishna - 6a
  
===האיזור המרכזי - סקטור כלא 4===
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===Main sector - Prison #4===
====מימין לגג====
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====Right of the Roof====
מסלול 11 - אסור לעצבן את אמא - 6b+
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route # 11 - אסור לעצבן את אמא - 6b+
  
מסלול 12 - כלא ארבע - 6a+
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route # 12 - Prison #4 - 6a+
  
מסלול 13 - המדרגות של יאיר - 6b
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route # 13 - Yair's Stairs - 6b
  
מסלול 14 - ללא שם - 5+ (טראד)
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route # 14 - ללא שם - 5+ (trad)
  
====הגג הנמוך====
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====The Roof====
מסלול 15 - אמצע החיים - 6c
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route # 15 - Midlife - 6c
  
מסלול 16 - הפיתונים - 6c (טראד)
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route # 16 - Pitons - 6c (trad)
  
מסלול 17 - חור המנעול - 6c+
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route # 17 - Keyhole - 6c+
  
מסלול 18 - הנחש - 6b+
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route # 18 - The snake - 6b+
  
מסלול 19 - ללא שם - 5 (טראד)
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route # 19 - no name - 5 (trad)
====משמאל לגג====
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====Left of The Roof====
מסלול 20 - החתיכה - 6a
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route # 20 - The Piece - 6a
  
לשלושת המסלולים הבאים התחלה משותפת:
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The next three routes share a common start
  
מסלול 21 - פיקדילי - 6b
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route # 21 - Picadilly - 6b
  
מסלול 22 - Benzamite sandwitch -  
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route # 22 - Benzamite sandwitch -  
 
6c
 
6c
  
מסלול 23 - take it or leave it
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route # 23 - take it or leave it
 
- 7b+
 
- 7b+
  
מסלול 24 - ברית מילה - 6c
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route # 24 - Circumcission - 6c
  
מסלול 25 - ללא שם - 5 (טראד)
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route # 25 - no name - 5 (trad)
  
מסלול 26 - היצ'קוק - 6c (מבולט רק למעלה)
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route # 26 - Hitchcock - 6c (only the top part is bolted)
  
לשני המסלולים הבאים שני בולטים ראשונים משותפים:
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The next two routes share the first two bolts
  
מסלול 27 - 5c
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route # 27 - 5c
  
מסלול 28 - 6b+  
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route # 28 - 6b+  
  
===האיזור השמאלי===
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===The left sector===
נמצא קצת יותר רחוק משמאל, והמסלולים מתחילים יותר גבוה והם קצרים - 4-5 בולטים כל אחד:
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This area is further to the left, the routes start higher up and are shorter - 4-5 bolts each.
  
מסלול 29 - קריאת העורב - 7a
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route # 29 - call of the crow - 7a
  
מסלול 30 - On shawn
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route # 30 - On shawn
 
- 6c
 
- 6c
  
מסלול 31 - דרך המלך - 5c
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route # 31 - דרך המלך - 5c
  
מסלול 32 - מונטה קרלו- 6a
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route # 32 - Monte Carlo- 6a
  
מסלול 33 - סוף טוב - 6a+
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route # 33 - Happy Ending - 6a+
  
==קישורים חיצוניים==
 
* [http://www.israelalpine.org/wiki/index.php?title=נחל_שילה_-_בית_אריה המדריך הישן, באתר הישן של המועדון האלפיני (עם כמה תמונות)]
 
* [http://www.ilcc.co.il/he/climbing/guidebook/ מדריך שלם, באתר החדש של המועדון האלפיני (מחייב הרשמה לאתר וחברות במועדון)]
 
 
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contributions to this page by: : [[user: Mica Yaniv|Mica yaniv]] and others...
  
תרמו לדף זה: [[משתמש: מיכה יניב|מיכה יניב]] ואחרים...
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[[category : climbing sites in Israel]]
[[ Climbing sites in Israel]]
 
[[קטגוריה: אתרי טיפוס]]
 

גרסה מ־04:01, 17 ביולי 2012

TheBeit Aryeh crag is located east to the town of Beit Aryeh and above Wadi Shiloh.It is a single pitch crag, with some 40 routes, most of them bolted And a few trad and top-rope routes. The rock is Turonic limestone and is pretty solid. it is east facing, and is shaded from 10:00-11:00 in winter, and from 12:00-13:00 in summer.

Most routes have two bolts and a chain at the top.

south from the main climbing area there's another tiny crag nicknamed "the Boulder". It is a 6m rockface, with some extra short bolted routes, with no belay stances at the top. there are a few threads. It is not worth your time and is only mentioned here for completeness...

History

Climbing in Beit Aryeh started in the early 1990's. The local ranger, himself a resident of Beit Aryeh, along with the Israel Climbing Club (formerly the Israeli Alpine Club) approved the crag for climbing on two conditions:

  1. No rappeling groups.
  2. No climbing on the other side, NE to the main crag where some eagles occasionally nest.

Since climbers hate having other people rappel on top of them, and hate even more long approaches, those conditions were fulfilled automatically.

During the first years the crag was very popular, routes were oppened, cleaned and bolted. In 2001, when the first Intifada started, and after a few incidents (shooting on passing cars etc.) on the road leading to Beit Aryeh, the climbers deserted the site and switched to Shilat.

Around 2007 Beit Aryeh got popular again. a whole new sector was bolted (the Ledge) and climbers came back. Since a tall wire fence was built in the meantime, access was limited. After disscutions with the town's chief of security a gate was set, and 10 keys were made, which are kept at the guard's cabin at the entrance to the town. Climbers can get one in exchange to an id or a driver's license.

Getting there

On rd 444, between Rosh Ha-ain and Shoham, turn left to rd 465 to Beit Aryeh.

map

Enter Beit Aryeh itself, turn right at the second junction. After 100m there's a playground on the right. Turn there, go past the roundabout and continue down to the T junction.

Right on the T junction will take you to the boulder. Left will take you on a paved road, turning into a dirt road. After 1km you can see a gate. Park there and go down the path. You can go around the crag from both sides. There is also a grade 4 down climbing option, that's shorter. This option is not reccomended if you're not familiar with it. It had seen some accidents.

Gear

The longest routes are 25m, so a 50m rope is just enough for them, but is definitely sufficient for the rest. For the sport routes, 14 runners are fine. for the trad routes nuts and tricams will do the trick.

Cams are not recommended as the crag is of limestone and coms might not get enough grab.

Routes

חלוקת האיזורים במצוק של בית אריה

Routes are enummerated right to left

The Ledge

This sector is relatively new, and was developed from 2006. In order to reach it, you need to go North scramble upwards from the main sector. The routes are not as long, aboout 17m. The first and last routes start below the ledge itself, and are a bit longer.

The first route is right to the Ledge, towards the cave.

route # 1 - Super Daddy - 6a

The next routes start on the ledge.

route # 2 - ס.מ.כ. - 5+

route # 3 - דרדסבא זה עוד רחוק? - 6c

route # 4 - Maya the bee - 6c

route # 5 - Quantumleap - 6c (direct) or 6b (in the crack on the left)

route # 6 - king's highway - 6c

route # 7 - strong to the left - 6b

route # 8 - גינת הטרמיקים - 6a

The last two routes star below the ledge, on the left.

route # 9 - יהודה ושומרון אקספרס - 6 a+

route # 10 - Hare Krishna - 6a

Main sector - Prison #4

Right of the Roof

route # 11 - אסור לעצבן את אמא - 6b+

route # 12 - Prison #4 - 6a+

route # 13 - Yair's Stairs - 6b

route # 14 - ללא שם - 5+ (trad)

The Roof

route # 15 - Midlife - 6c

route # 16 - Pitons - 6c (trad)

route # 17 - Keyhole - 6c+

route # 18 - The snake - 6b+

route # 19 - no name - 5 (trad)

Left of The Roof

route # 20 - The Piece - 6a

The next three routes share a common start

route # 21 - Picadilly - 6b

route # 22 - Benzamite sandwitch - 6c

route # 23 - take it or leave it - 7b+

route # 24 - Circumcission - 6c

route # 25 - no name - 5 (trad)

route # 26 - Hitchcock - 6c (only the top part is bolted)

The next two routes share the first two bolts

route # 27 - 5c

route # 28 - 6b+

The left sector

This area is further to the left, the routes start higher up and are shorter - 4-5 bolts each.

route # 29 - call of the crow - 7a

route # 30 - On shawn - 6c

route # 31 - דרך המלך - 5c

route # 32 - Monte Carlo- 6a

route # 33 - Happy Ending - 6a+


contributions to this page by: : Mica yaniv and others...