הבדלים בין גרסאות בדף "Recovery"
(דף חדש: '''התאוששות''' (באנגלית: '''Recovery''') היא היכולת של הגוף להתמודד עם העייפות ולהפחית את ההשפעות שלה. ככל ש...) |
|||
| (גרסת ביניים אחת של אותו משתמש אינה מוצגת) | |||
| שורה 1: | שורה 1: | ||
| − | '''[[התאוששות]]''' | + | '''[[התאוששות]]''' |
| − | + | {{LTR}} | |
| − | + | '''[[Recovery]]''' refers to the body's ability to cope with fatigue and minimize its effects on performance. the faster the climber recovers, the faster he can be back at his full performance. There always is a point where a climber must rest, but a a quick recovery will minimize the time needed. | |
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| + | Studies have shown that a climber requires an average time of about 20min to recover from a [[pump]]. one can improve recovery by training specifically for that. The training session combines hard and medium level routes. You climb hard routes until you're pumped (but not to failure) and then keep climbing easier routes until the arms muscle feels less fatigued. When your arms feel better, go back to climbing hrd routes until pumped. repeat three times. Keep training until your recovery time shortens to the point where yopu can actually rest on a large hold on a route... | ||
| + | ==recovery while resting== | ||
| + | Obviously, Recovery can be achieved through complete rest. You can recover even faster if, while [[belaying|belay]] or resting, youdrink and eat something. This will help replenishing energy, as well as close your [[oxygen debt]]. | ||
| + | ==recovery while climbing== | ||
| + | As surprising as it may sound, one can also recover while climbing. This is harder, of course, and requires proper technique, luck, and [[finger strength]]. Luck depends on the route. Technique is expressed by effectively utilizing the [[holds]] and body positions to rest. Common resting positions are [[heel hooks|heel hook]], [[knee bars|knee bar]], [[lie-backs|lie-back]] and [[bridging]]/stemming]]. Finger strength will help stay on those hols and alternating hands to let the arms recover. | ||
{{signature}} | {{signature}} | ||
[[category: skills and techniques]] | [[category: skills and techniques]] | ||
גרסה אחרונה מ־23:31, 14 ביולי 2011
Recovery refers to the body's ability to cope with fatigue and minimize its effects on performance. the faster the climber recovers, the faster he can be back at his full performance. There always is a point where a climber must rest, but a a quick recovery will minimize the time needed.
Studies have shown that a climber requires an average time of about 20min to recover from a pump. one can improve recovery by training specifically for that. The training session combines hard and medium level routes. You climb hard routes until you're pumped (but not to failure) and then keep climbing easier routes until the arms muscle feels less fatigued. When your arms feel better, go back to climbing hrd routes until pumped. repeat three times. Keep training until your recovery time shortens to the point where yopu can actually rest on a large hold on a route...
recovery while resting
Obviously, Recovery can be achieved through complete rest. You can recover even faster if, while belay or resting, youdrink and eat something. This will help replenishing energy, as well as close your oxygen debt.
recovery while climbing
As surprising as it may sound, one can also recover while climbing. This is harder, of course, and requires proper technique, luck, and finger strength. Luck depends on the route. Technique is expressed by effectively utilizing the holds and body positions to rest. Common resting positions are heel hook, knee bar, lie-back and bridging/stemming]]. Finger strength will help stay on those hols and alternating hands to let the arms recover.
Contributions to this page by: Micha Yaniv and others
