Securing a knot

מתוך Climbing_Encyclopedia
גרסה מ־07:43, 14 במרץ 2010 מאת מיכה יניב (שיחה | תרומות)
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bowline secured with an Overhand kn ot

איבטוח קשרים

Securing a knot is simply a means to ensure a knot will not get untied by itself. Normally, it is just another knot, seving as a stopper knot. Some knots do not need securing. A Figure of eight loop, for example, is very safe by itself and does not need extra safety. Securing is only needed with knots that are known to be unsafe. This can change with the type of rope, it's knotability and usage. Securing is a must with those knots that can slip and untie themselves.

It is coommon practice to use an Overhand knot or a Double overhand (better), but two Half hitches are also acceptable. A good example for using half hitches is when locking a belay device.

Some knots are only made of a securing knot. Ring knot, for example, is such a knot. Without the secure, there would be no knot.

Another approach for securing knots is to use the rope end and pass it through the knot itself, thus creating more friction on the rope end, rather than a stopper knot as was peviously described. This method is frequently used for Bowline and is called yosemite finish).

Securiing the knot is done following the rule that:

  1. ropes exiting the knots will keep their direction.
  2. The ropes will not get sharply kinked to create a nip at the point where it exits the knot.

Kinks can affect the knots strength where as the securing of the knot affects its safety.

Knots that need securing

Bowline, Square knot, Clove hitch (near the rope's end), Double overhand knot (for connecting rappel lines).

Knots that do not need securing but sometimes are secured

Figure of eight loop, Figure of eight follow through, Fishermans knot.  

Contributions to this page were made by Mica Yaniv and others...