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https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&feed=atom&action=history Effective fall factor - היסטוריית גרסאות 2024-03-29T11:30:44Z היסטוריית הגרסאות של הדף הזה בוויקי MediaWiki 1.30.0 https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&diff=11025&oldid=prev מיכה יניב ב־17:45, 9 בנובמבר 2011 2011-11-09T17:45:02Z <p></p> <table class="diff diff-contentalign-right" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr style="vertical-align: top;" lang="he"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">→ הגרסה הקודמת</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">גרסה מ־17:45, 9 בנובמבר 2011</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l8" >שורה 8:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 8:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>&lt;math&gt;FF=\frac {h}{L}&lt;/math&gt;</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>&lt;math&gt;FF=\frac {h}{L}&lt;/math&gt;</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We assume, of course, that the whole rope is elongated evenly. But is that assumption justified? In most conceivable lead falls, the rope passes through a few runners, and <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">is dragged </del>over rock. The friction causes different rope segments to absorb different amounts of the kinetic energy of the fall. The impact force will be larger, and similar to one generated in a higher fall factor fall.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We assume, of course, that the whole rope is elongated evenly. But is that assumption justified? In most conceivable lead falls, the rope passes through a few runners, and <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">runs </ins>over rock. The friction causes different rope segments to absorb different amounts of the kinetic energy of the fall. The impact force will be larger, and similar to one generated in a higher fall factor fall.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of the rope passing through binners effectively devides the rope into different sections, each with a different tension. If the rope changes direction in the binner not only the leader has more [[drag]], but in the case of a lead fall, the friction separates the segments of length of rope. The more the angle differs from 180°, the more different the tention will be between segments. In this case, the fall factor is no longer a good estimate for the impact force, since the whole length of rope is not equally elongated. A better estimate would be to use an &quot;effective&quot; fall factor, which will allways be higher than the theoretical one. This means the impact force will be higher, and the fall - more severe. This is especially evident by the difference between the force applied to the falling climber, and the force felt by the belayer. Ideally they should be the same, but actually, the difference is not negligible. This difference is actually the sum of friction forces in all the runners. It can be calculated by summing up all the angles of the rope and substituting the total angle in the formula:</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of the rope passing through binners effectively devides the rope into different sections, each with a different tension. If the rope changes direction in the binner not only the leader has more [[drag]], but in the case of a lead fall, the friction separates the segments of length of rope. The more the angle differs from 180°, the more different the tention will be between segments. In this case, the fall factor is no longer a good estimate for the impact force, since the whole length of rope is not equally elongated. A better estimate would be to use an &quot;effective&quot; fall factor, which will allways be higher than the theoretical one. This means the impact force will be higher, and the fall - more severe. This is especially evident by the difference between the force applied to the falling climber, and the force felt by the belayer. Ideally they should be the same, but actually, the difference is not negligible. This difference is actually the sum of friction forces in all the runners. It can be calculated by summing up all the angles of the rope and substituting the total angle in the formula:</div></td></tr> </table> מיכה יניב https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&diff=11024&oldid=prev מיכה יניב ב־17:27, 9 בנובמבר 2011 2011-11-09T17:27:25Z <p></p> <table class="diff diff-contentalign-right" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr style="vertical-align: top;" lang="he"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">→ הגרסה הקודמת</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">גרסה מ־17:27, 9 בנובמבר 2011</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l2" >שורה 2:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 2:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{LTR}}</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{LTR}}</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that determine the [[impact force]] that develops during the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the ratio between full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]] are taken. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prevents the rope <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">to elongate </del>evenly, thus <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">making </del>the effective fall factor to be higher, as well as the impact force.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that determine the [[impact force]] that develops during the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the ratio between full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]] are taken. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prevents the rope <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">from elongating </ins>evenly, thus <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">causing </ins>the effective fall factor to be higher, as well as the impact force.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: fall_factor_values_en.jpg|right|thumb|120px|lengths used to calculate the fall factor]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: fall_factor_values_en.jpg|right|thumb|120px|lengths used to calculate the fall factor]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The fall factor is the ratio between the length of the fall and the length of the rope used to break it. If &lt;math&gt;h&lt;/math&gt; is the fall length, and &lt;math&gt;L&lt;/math&gt; is the length of the rope that's elongated while breaking it, the fall factor is:</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The fall factor is the ratio between the length of the fall and the length of the rope used to break it. If &lt;math&gt;h&lt;/math&gt; is the fall length, and &lt;math&gt;L&lt;/math&gt; is the length of the rope that's elongated while breaking it, the fall factor is:</div></td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l8" >שורה 8:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 8:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>&lt;math&gt;FF=\frac {h}{L}&lt;/math&gt;</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>&lt;math&gt;FF=\frac {h}{L}&lt;/math&gt;</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We assume, of course, that the whole rope is elongated evenly. But is that assumption justified? In most conceivable lead falls, the rope passes through a few runners, and <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">touches the </del>rock <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">too</del>. The friction <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">on the </del>rope <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">makes different </del>segments absorb different amounts of the kinetic energy of the fall. The impact force will be larger, and similar to one generated in a higher fall factor fall.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We assume, of course, that the whole rope is elongated evenly. But is that assumption justified? In most conceivable lead falls, the rope passes through a few runners, and <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">is dragged over </ins>rock. The friction <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">causes different </ins>rope segments <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">to </ins>absorb different amounts of the kinetic energy of the fall. The impact force will be larger, and similar to one generated in a higher fall factor fall.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of the rope passing through binners effectively devides the rope into different sections, each with a different tension. If the rope changes direction in the binner not only the leader has more [[drag]], but in the case of a lead fall, the friction separates the segments of length of rope. The more the angle differs from 180°, the more different the tention will be between segments. In this case, the fall factor is no longer a good estimate for the impact force, since the whole length of rope is not equally elongated. A better estimate would be to use an &quot;effective&quot; fall factor, which will allways be <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">larger </del>than the theoretical one. This means the impact force will be <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">larger</del>, and the fall - more severe. This is especially evident by the difference between the force applied to the falling climber, and the force felt by the belayer. Ideally they should be the same, but actually, the difference is not negligible. This difference is actually the sum of friction forces in all the runners. It can be calculated by summing up all the angles of the rope and <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">substiting </del>the total angle in the formula:</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of the rope passing through binners effectively devides the rope into different sections, each with a different tension. If the rope changes direction in the binner not only the leader has more [[drag]], but in the case of a lead fall, the friction separates the segments of length of rope. The more the angle differs from 180°, the more different the tention will be between segments. In this case, the fall factor is no longer a good estimate for the impact force, since the whole length of rope is not equally elongated. A better estimate would be to use an &quot;effective&quot; fall factor, which will allways be <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">higher </ins>than the theoretical one. This means the impact force will be <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">higher</ins>, and the fall - more severe. This is especially evident by the difference between the force applied to the falling climber, and the force felt by the belayer. Ideally they should be the same, but actually, the difference is not negligible. This difference is actually the sum of friction forces in all the runners. It can be calculated by summing up all the angles of the rope and <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">substituting </ins>the total angle in the formula:</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: friction_lead_fall.jpg|right|thumb|180px|angles in the runners]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: friction_lead_fall.jpg|right|thumb|180px|angles in the runners]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l24" >שורה 24:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 24:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>Without calculating it might seem that the friction is not signifficant, but it is. This is rigorously explained in the article about [[how do friction devices work?]] and here we'll give only a short outline:</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>Without calculating it might seem that the friction is not signifficant, but it is. This is rigorously explained in the article about [[how do friction devices work?]] and here we'll give only a short outline:</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of a rope on a capstan (strangely enough, the diameter of the capstan has no effect) is determined by the angle the rope spans while going around the capstan. A rope hanging from a binner, for axample, will span 180°. For a rope passing through a binner, the angle can simply be calculated as &lt;math&gt;180°-\alpha&lt;/math&gt;,&#160; &lt;math&gt;\alpha&lt;/math&gt; being the angle between the ropes on both sides of the binner.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of a rope on a capstan (strangely enough, the diameter of the capstan has <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">almost </ins>no effect) is determined by the angle the rope spans while going around the capstan. A rope hanging from a binner, for axample, will span 180°. For a rope passing through a binner, the angle can simply be calculated as &lt;math&gt;180°-\alpha&lt;/math&gt;,&#160; &lt;math&gt;\alpha&lt;/math&gt; being the angle between the ropes on both sides of the binner.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>==further reading==</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>==further reading==</div></td></tr> </table> מיכה יניב https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&diff=10046&oldid=prev מיכה יניב ב־19:21, 5 בספטמבר 2010 2010-09-05T19:21:17Z <p></p> <table class="diff diff-contentalign-right" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr style="vertical-align: top;" lang="he"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">→ הגרסה הקודמת</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">גרסה מ־19:21, 5 בספטמבר 2010</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l2" >שורה 2:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 2:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{LTR}}</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{LTR}}</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline"> </del>'''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">will </del>determine the [[impact force]] that <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">will develope durim=ng </del>the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">prev ents from </del>the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective<del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">, real world </del>fall factor to be higher <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">aa </del>well as the impact force.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that determine the [[impact force]] that <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">develops during </ins>the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">ratio between </ins>full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]] <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">are taken</ins>. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">prevents </ins>the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective fall factor to be higher<ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">, as </ins>well as the impact force.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: fall_factor_values_en.jpg|right|thumb|120px|lengths used to calculate the fall factor]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: fall_factor_values_en.jpg|right|thumb|120px|lengths used to calculate the fall factor]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">We remind that the </del>fall factor is the ratio between the length of the fall and the length of the rope used to break it. If &lt;math&gt;h&lt;/math&gt; is the fall length, and &lt;math&gt;L&lt;/math&gt; is the length of the rope that's elongated while breaking it, <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">we get can calculate </del>the fall factor <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">to be</del>:</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">The </ins>fall factor is the ratio between the length of the fall and the length of the rope used to break it. If &lt;math&gt;h&lt;/math&gt; is the fall length, and &lt;math&gt;L&lt;/math&gt; is the length of the rope that's elongated while breaking it, the fall factor <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">is</ins>:</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>&lt;math&gt;FF=\frac {h}{L}&lt;/math&gt;</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>&lt;math&gt;FF=\frac {h}{L}&lt;/math&gt;</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We assume, of course, that the whole rope is elongated evenly. But is that assumption justified? In <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">amost every </del>conceivable lead <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">fall</del>, the rope passes through a few runners, and touches the rock too. The friction on the rope makes different segments <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">of rock </del>absorb different amounts of the kinetic energy of the fall. <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">the meaning is that the </del>impact force will be larger, and similar to one <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">generaten </del>in a higher fall factor fall.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We assume, of course, that the whole rope is elongated evenly. But is that assumption justified? In <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">most </ins>conceivable lead <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">falls</ins>, the rope passes through a few runners, and touches the rock too. The friction on the rope makes different segments absorb different amounts of the kinetic energy of the fall. <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">The </ins>impact force will be larger, and similar to one <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">generated </ins>in a higher fall factor fall.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of the rope passing through binners effectively devides the rope into different sections, each with a different tension. If the rope changes direction in the binner not only the leader <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">will have </del>more [[drag]], but in the case of a lead fall, <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">it </del>separates <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">between </del>the segments of length of rope. <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">the </del>more the angle differs from 180°, the more different the tention will be between segments. In this case, the fall factor is no longer a good <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">estimator </del>for the impact force, since the whole length of rope is not equally elongated. A better estimate would be to use an &quot;effective&quot; fall factor, which will allways be larger than the theoretical one. This means the impact force will be larger, and the fall - more severe. This is especially evident by the difference between the force applied to the falling climber, and the force felt by the belayer. Ideally they should be the same, but actually, the difference is not negligible. This difference is actually the sum of friction forces in all the runners. It can be <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">calcukated </del>by summing up <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">al </del>the angles of the rope and substiting the total angle in the formula:</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of the rope passing through binners effectively devides the rope into different sections, each with a different tension. If the rope changes direction in the binner not only the leader <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">has </ins>more [[drag]], but in the case of a lead fall, <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">the friction </ins>separates the segments of length of rope. <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">The </ins>more the angle differs from 180°, the more different the tention will be between segments. In this case, the fall factor is no longer a good <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">estimate </ins>for the impact force, since the whole length of rope is not equally elongated. A better estimate would be to use an &quot;effective&quot; fall factor, which will allways be larger than the theoretical one. This means the impact force will be larger, and the fall - more severe. This is especially evident by the difference between the force applied to the falling climber, and the force felt by the belayer. Ideally they should be the same, but actually, the difference is not negligible. This difference is actually the sum of friction forces in all the runners. It can be <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">calculated </ins>by summing up <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">all </ins>the angles of the rope and substiting the total angle in the formula:</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: friction_lead_fall.jpg|right|thumb|180px|angles in the runners]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: friction_lead_fall.jpg|right|thumb|180px|angles in the runners]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l24" >שורה 24:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 24:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>Without calculating it might seem that the friction is not signifficant, but it is. This is rigorously explained in the article about [[how do friction devices work?]] and here we'll give only a short outline:</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>Without calculating it might seem that the friction is not signifficant, but it is. This is rigorously explained in the article about [[how do friction devices work?]] and here we'll give only a short outline:</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of a rope on a capstan (strangely enough, the diameter of the capstan has no effect) is determined by the angle the rope spans <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">whyly </del>going around the capstan. A rope hanging from a binner, for axample, will span 180°. For a rope passing through a binner, the angle can simply be calculated as &lt;math&gt;180°-\alpha&lt;/math&gt;,&#160; &lt;math&gt;<del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">180°-</del>\alpha&lt;/math&gt; being the angle between the ropes on both sides of the binner.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of a rope on a capstan (strangely enough, the diameter of the capstan has no effect) is determined by the angle the rope spans <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">while </ins>going around the capstan. A rope hanging from a binner, for axample, will span 180°. For a rope passing through a binner, the angle can simply be calculated as &lt;math&gt;180°-\alpha&lt;/math&gt;,&#160; &lt;math&gt;\alpha&lt;/math&gt; being the angle between the ropes on both sides of the binner.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>==further reading==</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>==further reading==</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[leading methods]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[leading methods]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[fall factor]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[fall factor]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[<del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">impaqct </del>force]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[<ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">impact </ins>force]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[dynamic belay]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[dynamic belay]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[advanced dynamic belay techniques]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[advanced dynamic belay techniques]]</div></td></tr> </table> מיכה יניב https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&diff=10044&oldid=prev מיכה יניב ב־17:33, 5 בספטמבר 2010 2010-09-05T17:33:06Z <p></p> <table class="diff diff-contentalign-right" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr style="vertical-align: top;" lang="he"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">→ הגרסה הקודמת</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">גרסה מ־17:33, 5 בספטמבר 2010</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l3" >שורה 3:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 3:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{LTR}}</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{LTR}}</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called&#160; '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that will determine the [[impact force]] that will develope durim=ng the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prev ents from the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective, real world fall factor to be higher aa well as the impact force.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called&#160; '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that will determine the [[impact force]] that will develope durim=ng the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prev ents from the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective, real world fall factor to be higher aa well as the impact force.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">fall_factor_values</del>.jpg|right|thumb|120px|lengths used to calculate the fall factor]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">fall_factor_values_en</ins>.jpg|right|thumb|120px|lengths used to calculate the fall factor]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We remind that the fall factor is the ratio between the length of the fall and the length of the rope used to break it. If &lt;math&gt;h&lt;/math&gt; is the fall length, and &lt;math&gt;L&lt;/math&gt; is the length of the rope that's elongated while breaking it, we get can calculate the fall factor to be:</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We remind that the fall factor is the ratio between the length of the fall and the length of the rope used to break it. If &lt;math&gt;h&lt;/math&gt; is the fall length, and &lt;math&gt;L&lt;/math&gt; is the length of the rope that's elongated while breaking it, we get can calculate the fall factor to be:</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> </table> מיכה יניב https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&diff=10043&oldid=prev מיכה יניב ב־17:21, 5 בספטמבר 2010 2010-09-05T17:21:11Z <p></p> <table class="diff diff-contentalign-right" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr style="vertical-align: top;" lang="he"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">→ הגרסה הקודמת</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">גרסה מ־17:21, 5 בספטמבר 2010</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l1" >שורה 1:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 1:</td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2">&#160;</td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">'''מקדם נפילה אפקטיבי'''</ins></div></td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2">&#160;</td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;"></ins></div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{LTR}}</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{LTR}}</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">'''מקדם נפילה אפקטיבי'''</del></div></td><td colspan="2">&#160;</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called&#160; '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that will determine the [[impact force]] that will develope durim=ng the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prev ents from the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective, real world fall factor to be higher aa well as the impact force.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called&#160; '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that will determine the [[impact force]] that will develope durim=ng the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prev ents from the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective, real world fall factor to be higher aa well as the impact force.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: fall_factor_values.jpg|right|thumb|120px|lengths used to calculate the fall factor]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: fall_factor_values.jpg|right|thumb|120px|lengths used to calculate the fall factor]]</div></td></tr> </table> מיכה יניב https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&diff=10042&oldid=prev מיכה יניב ב־15:55, 5 בספטמבר 2010 2010-09-05T15:55:08Z <p></p> <table class="diff diff-contentalign-right" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr style="vertical-align: top;" lang="he"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">→ הגרסה הקודמת</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">גרסה מ־15:55, 5 בספטמבר 2010</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l32" >שורה 32:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 32:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[advanced dynamic belay techniques]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[advanced dynamic belay techniques]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2">&#160;</td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">----</ins></div></td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2">&#160;</td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">contributions to this page by: : [[user: Mica Yaniv|Mica yaniv]] and others...</ins></div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[category: glossary]][[category: mountaineering]][[category:rock climbing]][[category: aid climbing]][[category: טיפוס]][[category: safety]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[category: glossary]][[category: mountaineering]][[category:rock climbing]][[category: aid climbing]][[category: טיפוס]][[category: safety]]</div></td></tr> </table> מיכה יניב https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&diff=10041&oldid=prev מיכה יניב ב־15:51, 5 בספטמבר 2010 2010-09-05T15:51:09Z <p></p> <table class="diff diff-contentalign-right" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr style="vertical-align: top;" lang="he"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">→ הגרסה הקודמת</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">גרסה מ־15:51, 5 בספטמבר 2010</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l1" >שורה 1:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 1:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{<del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">ltr</del>}}</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{<ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">LTR</ins>}}</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''מקדם נפילה אפקטיבי'''</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''מקדם נפילה אפקטיבי'''</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called&#160; '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that will determine the [[impact force]] that will develope durim=ng the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prev ents from the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective, real world fall factor to be higher aa well as the impact force.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called&#160; '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that will determine the [[impact force]] that will develope durim=ng the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prev ents from the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective, real world fall factor to be higher aa well as the impact force.</div></td></tr> </table> מיכה יניב https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&diff=10040&oldid=prev מיכה יניב ב־15:49, 5 בספטמבר 2010 2010-09-05T15:49:44Z <p></p> <table class="diff diff-contentalign-right" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr style="vertical-align: top;" lang="he"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">→ הגרסה הקודמת</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">גרסה מ־15:49, 5 בספטמבר 2010</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l8" >שורה 8:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 8:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We assume, of course, that the whole rope is elongated evenly. But is that assumption justified? In amost every conceivable lead fall, the rope passes through a few runners, and touches the rock too. The friction on the rope makes different segments of rock absorb different amounts of the kinetic energy of the fall. the meaning is that the impact force will be larger, and similar to one generaten in a higher fall factor fall.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We assume, of course, that the whole rope is elongated evenly. But is that assumption justified? In amost every conceivable lead fall, the rope passes through a few runners, and touches the rock too. The friction on the rope makes different segments of rock absorb different amounts of the kinetic energy of the fall. the meaning is that the impact force will be larger, and similar to one generaten in a higher fall factor fall.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[[image: friction_lead_fall.jpg|right|thumb|180px|angles in the runners]]</del></div></td><td colspan="2">&#160;</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of the rope passing through binners effectively devides the rope into different sections, each with a different tension. If the rope changes direction in the binner not only the leader will have more [[drag]], but in the case of a lead fall, it separates between the segments of length of rope. the more the angle differs from 180°, the more different the tention will be between segments. In this case, the fall factor is no longer a good estimator for the impact force, since the whole length of rope is not equally elongated. A better estimate would be to use an &quot;effective&quot; fall factor, which will allways be larger than the theoretical one. This means the impact force will be larger, and the fall - more severe. This is especially evident by the difference between the force applied to the falling climber, and the force felt by the belayer. Ideally they should be the same, but actually, the difference is not negligible. This difference is actually the sum of friction forces in all the runners. It can be calcukated by summing up al the angles of the rope and substiting the total angle in the formula:</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of the rope passing through binners effectively devides the rope into different sections, each with a different tension. If the rope changes direction in the binner not only the leader will have more [[drag]], but in the case of a lead fall, it separates between the segments of length of rope. the more the angle differs from 180°, the more different the tention will be between segments. In this case, the fall factor is no longer a good estimator for the impact force, since the whole length of rope is not equally elongated. A better estimate would be to use an &quot;effective&quot; fall factor, which will allways be larger than the theoretical one. This means the impact force will be larger, and the fall - more severe. This is especially evident by the difference between the force applied to the falling climber, and the force felt by the belayer. Ideally they should be the same, but actually, the difference is not negligible. This difference is actually the sum of friction forces in all the runners. It can be calcukated by summing up al the angles of the rope and substiting the total angle in the formula:</div></td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2">&#160;</td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[[image: friction_lead_fall.jpg|right|thumb|180px|angles in the runners]]</ins></div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>&lt;math&gt;F_f=T_2(1-e^{\mu(180N-\alpha})\,\!&lt;/math&gt;</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>&lt;math&gt;F_f=T_2(1-e^{\mu(180N-\alpha})\,\!&lt;/math&gt;</div></td></tr> </table> מיכה יניב https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&diff=10039&oldid=prev מיכה יניב ב־15:49, 5 בספטמבר 2010 2010-09-05T15:49:19Z <p></p> <table class="diff diff-contentalign-right" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr style="vertical-align: top;" lang="he"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">→ הגרסה הקודמת</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">גרסה מ־15:49, 5 בספטמבר 2010</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l1" >שורה 1:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 1:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{<del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">eng</del>}}</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>{{<ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">ltr</ins>}}</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''מקדם נפילה אפקטיבי'''</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''מקדם נפילה אפקטיבי'''</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called&#160; '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that will determine the [[impact force]] that will develope durim=ng the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prev ents from the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective, real world fall factor to be higher aa well as the impact force.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called&#160; '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that will determine the [[impact force]] that will develope durim=ng the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prev ents from the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective, real world fall factor to be higher aa well as the impact force.</div></td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l8" >שורה 8:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 8:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We assume, of course, that the whole rope is elongated evenly. But is that assumption justified? In amost every conceivable lead fall, the rope passes through a few runners, and touches the rock too. The friction on the rope makes different segments of rock absorb different amounts of the kinetic energy of the fall. the meaning is that the impact force will be larger, and similar to one generaten in a higher fall factor fall.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>We assume, of course, that the whole rope is elongated evenly. But is that assumption justified? In amost every conceivable lead fall, the rope passes through a few runners, and touches the rock too. The friction on the rope makes different segments of rock absorb different amounts of the kinetic energy of the fall. the meaning is that the impact force will be larger, and similar to one generaten in a higher fall factor fall.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: friction_lead_fall.jpg|<del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">left</del>|thumb|180px|angles in the runners]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[image: friction_lead_fall.jpg|<ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">right</ins>|thumb|180px|angles in the runners]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of the rope passing through binners effectively devides the rope into different sections, each with a different tension. If the rope changes direction in the binner not only the leader will have more [[drag]], but in the case of a lead fall, it separates between the segments of length of rope. the more the angle differs from 180°, the more different the tention will be between segments. In this case, the fall factor is no longer a good estimator for the impact force, since the whole length of rope is not equally elongated. A better estimate would be to use an &quot;effective&quot; fall factor, which will allways be larger than the theoretical one. This means the impact force will be larger, and the fall - more severe. This is especially evident by the difference between the force applied to the falling climber, and the force felt by the belayer. Ideally they should be the same, but actually, the difference is not negligible. This difference is actually the sum of friction forces in all the runners. It can be calcukated by summing up al the angles of the rope and substiting the total angle in the formula:</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of the rope passing through binners effectively devides the rope into different sections, each with a different tension. If the rope changes direction in the binner not only the leader will have more [[drag]], but in the case of a lead fall, it separates between the segments of length of rope. the more the angle differs from 180°, the more different the tention will be between segments. In this case, the fall factor is no longer a good estimator for the impact force, since the whole length of rope is not equally elongated. A better estimate would be to use an &quot;effective&quot; fall factor, which will allways be larger than the theoretical one. This means the impact force will be larger, and the fall - more severe. This is especially evident by the difference between the force applied to the falling climber, and the force felt by the belayer. Ideally they should be the same, but actually, the difference is not negligible. This difference is actually the sum of friction forces in all the runners. It can be calcukated by summing up al the angles of the rope and substiting the total angle in the formula:</div></td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l24" >שורה 24:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 24:</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of a rope on a capstan (strangely enough, the diameter of the capstan has no effect) is determined by the angle the rope spans whyly going around the capstan. A rope hanging from a binner, for axample, will span 180°. For a rope passing through a binner, the angle can simply be calculated as &lt;math&gt;180°-\alpha&lt;/math&gt;,&#160; &lt;math&gt;180°-\alpha&lt;/math&gt; being the angle between the ropes on both sides of the binner.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The friction of a rope on a capstan (strangely enough, the diameter of the capstan has no effect) is determined by the angle the rope spans whyly going around the capstan. A rope hanging from a binner, for axample, will span 180°. For a rope passing through a binner, the angle can simply be calculated as &lt;math&gt;180°-\alpha&lt;/math&gt;,&#160; &lt;math&gt;180°-\alpha&lt;/math&gt; being the angle between the ropes on both sides of the binner.</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[[mica]]</del></div></td><td colspan="2">&#160;</td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>==further reading==</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>==further reading==</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>−</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[leading <del class="diffchange diffchange-inline">methodsה</del>]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[leading <ins class="diffchange diffchange-inline">methods</ins>]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[fall factor]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[fall factor]]</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[impaqct force]]</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* [[impaqct force]]</div></td></tr> </table> מיכה יניב https://wiki.imga.org.il/index.php?title=Effective_fall_factor&diff=10038&oldid=prev מיכה יניב ב־15:48, 5 בספטמבר 2010 2010-09-05T15:48:27Z <p></p> <table class="diff diff-contentalign-right" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr style="vertical-align: top;" lang="he"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">→ הגרסה הקודמת</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: white; color:black; text-align: center;">גרסה מ־15:48, 5 בספטמבר 2010</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l1" >שורה 1:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">שורה 1:</td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2">&#160;</td><td class='diff-marker'>+</td><td style="color:black; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">{{eng}}</ins></div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''מקדם נפילה אפקטיבי'''</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''מקדם נפילה אפקטיבי'''</div></td></tr> <tr><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called&#160; '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that will determine the [[impact force]] that will develope durim=ng the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prev ents from the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective, real world fall factor to be higher aa well as the impact force.</div></td><td class='diff-marker'>&#160;</td><td style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #333333; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #e6e6e6; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>'''Effective fall factor''' or as it is sometimes called&#160; '''real world fall factor''' is the actual [[Fall Factor]] that will determine the [[impact force]] that will develope durim=ng the breaking of a [[lead fall]]. When estimating the fall factor, the full length of the [[ropes|rope]] between the falling climber and the [[belay device]] on the belayer's [[harness]]. Since the rope is dragged over rock and through the [[binners]] of the [[runners]], the friction prev ents from the rope to elongate evenly, thus making the effective, real world fall factor to be higher aa well as the impact force.</div></td></tr> </table> מיכה יניב