טיפוס מלאכותי

טיפוס מלאכותי הוא סגנון טיטוס המשתמש בעיגונים (אבני עיגון, בולטים ופיתונים) כדי להתקדם לאורך המסלול. בשיטת הדירוג של יוסמיטי, YDS - Yosemite Decimal System נחשבים מסלולים מלאכותיים לדירוג 6.

Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress. In the Yosemite Decimal System used in the US, it is sometimes called "6th class" climbing. The term contrasts with free climbing in which no artificial aids are used to make progress. In aid climbing, the climber ascends by hanging on, and climbing on, his or her equipment; in free climbing the climber ascends by holding onto, and stepping on, natural features of the rock, using rope and equipment only to catch them in case of a fall, and to hang on at belay stations. In general, aid climbing places less emphasis on athletic fitness and physical strength but more on technical skill, though the physical aspects of hard aid climbing should not be underestimated. Aid techniques are most often utilized on extremely steep and long routes, demanding great endurance and stamina, both physical and mental.

דירוג

The grading scale incorporates difficulty of placing protection and the danger associated with falling. The original scale was a closed gradation scale from A0-A5, modern aid climbers have adopted "new wave" grading which compresses the scale but still uses A0-A5. A0 Pulling on solid fixed gear. A1 Easy aid, no risk of any piece of protection pulling out. Safe falls. A2 Moderate aid. Short sections of tenuous placements above good protection. A2+ A3 Hard aid. Involves many tenuous placements in a row. A3+ A4 Runout, complex and time consuming. Many body weight placements. A4+ A5 Serious, hard aid with huge falls and possibly lethal results. No bolts or rivets. A6 The belay is bodyweight, you fall everyone dies (solely theoretical grade). [edit]Literature http://www.expemag.com/V0/comp/escalade.php

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