Jabel Rabba
J.Rabba is a independent mountain separated from Safsafa - Musa - Fara massif by big and deep valley El-Leja and situated above upper part of St.Catherine village and Field school. The cliff faces mainly to North, West and East.
Descent ways from Jabel Rabba:
Descent from routes of NW face: Follow the ridge south until the col. From the col, start descent to the right (to the same side as you came up). Keep to the left side of the gully, do not go down the first gully to the right, traverse one ridge and descent in the next (second) gully to the right. At the end of (second) gully, just before you get to some beduin routes, a short abseil of 5-7 meters may be required, to get around a HUGE stone in middle of gully. (We took the left side of second gully, it may be possible that in right side the descend is more comfortable). At the end a little scrambling (III) in the chimney to get down. Then follow the beduin routes to the village.
Routes of Jabel Rabba:
R1. Guano Chimney - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Bruce Devens, Victor Kaftal, 1977, 7-9 pitches, V+, J.Rabba, NE face
Approach: The Guano chimney is the big chimney (on the right of Mickey chimney) that starts 30m above and 20m on the left of the col between big Rabba and Chupchik and ends by 2 chockstones - one medium and one big.
1st pitch: up 45m(IV) through diedre, left traverse up and diedre chimney till ledge.
2nd pitch: follow ledge to left, up diedre/chimney till corner, up on ledge and sloping slabs into the guano chimney to good stance (IV+)
3rd pitch: up diedre (5m, V) through tree into chimney (IV+, 30m)
4th pitch: follow chimney (30m, V) to good stance. Scramble to "cave" 20m (the "droppings found there during 2nd attempt are rocks!!)
5th pitch: up 5m (IV) on the lips of chimney to steep ramp entering the narrow part of the chimney. Follow it (IV+ tiring!) till the chimney gets larger and then up to 1st chockstone (climb it from the inside). Climb 2nd chockstone (hidden from below) from outside. It is possible from there to haul a rucksack. The climb from the cave to the 1st chockstone, on the outside part of the chimney has been attempted again with no success.
6th pitch: up, then into hole below big(3rd) chockstone; scramble up to wall(7m, V) avoidable on left.
7th pitch: Easily straight up to top (II-III)
Descent:R2. Variante dell’ Apriscatole of Guano Chimney - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Giuseppe Gallizia, Andrea Anati, 1984, 7 pitches, V+, A3, J.Rabba, NE face
Approach:
Description: At end of wide chimney enter a beautiful little diaheder to right (V, V+). Continue on friable flake (A3, on rotten thin fissure, poorly protected), then up to easier ledge. then left to end of the original "Dark Chimney"
R3. Via dell’Amico Perduto - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Giuseppe Gallizia, Yossi Korem, 1984, 8 pitches, VII-, J.Rabba, NE face
Approach:
Descent:
R4. Amico Perduto Direct - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Danny Wolfstein, Nir Yarkoni, 1985, 8 pitches, VII-, J.Rabba, NE face
Approach: The climb starts from the top of the black dyke, some meters right of the beginning of the "Guano chimney".
One of the best routes in the area, sustained on good rock.
Climb up an easy crack chimney (20m, IV) to start of a pair of hand-cracks/corner. Follow this 20m(V+) till belay niche on right. Return to corner and follow it as it. slants left till its junction with the roof (VI) (original ascent went left on wall with pendulum move). Exit right on jugs thru overhand (1m out, VII), with good protection. Continue above roof 5m(V) to good stance. Climb up corner right (10m, V+) to easy traverse left (10m, II), back to main crack system and up this (30m, VI-) to stance. Climb on up and left (15m, V+) to vertical off width (10m, VII-) and belay in cave. Climb out thru back cave (chimney, IV) and then in easy off width (15m, V) to stance. Continue easily to top for 0.5 pitches.
Descent: as for Rabba cornerR5. Metzukey David - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Eli Nissan, Danny Wolfstein, 1982, 8 pitches, 250m, VI-, 5.10, J.Rabba, NE face
Approach: The route follows the big crack, some 150m below the head of the gully between the chupchik and Rabba.
Description: Traverse right some 20m on big ledge to beginning of crack and route. Go 40m up the crack (5.9+), then 40m 5.8, 40m 5.10. From here possible route up crack left or escape right across big ledge to crack and up crack (40m, 5.7). Then easily 80m (5.3) till left and up exposed slab (5.5). Then easily to top and descent route.
Descent:
R6. Arubat Deir er Rabba - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Terry Taylor, Victor Kaftal, 1976, 13 pitches, V+, J.Rabba, N corner
Approach:
Up the right chimney easy first two pitches, then 2 pitches more difficult (V) to on easy traverse left into the larger upper chimney . Good climbing (IV-) to the chockstone. Round this on the left (V+) then more easilly(2 pitches) except for long step right, to big ledges at the top.
Descent: diagonally down ledges to right then several abseils.
R7. Livkhiratkha - overview - picture - picture - topoFirst ascent: Gaby Manobla, Amir Jaakobi, 1984, 4 pitches, 5.7 (V) (2meters crack), J.Rabba, NW face
Approach: This is the left chimney among the two big ones around the center of the wall, just left of "Beginners" route.Follow slabbish slope (III) to flat stance at base of chimney proper. Climb chimney (IV) except for chockstone (-V), continue to stance just below the 5.7 crack, situated 1.5m left of chimney. Crack widens after 4m allowing chimney climb to stance, then an easy pitch, and scramble to col. At the end of 2nd pitch there is an abseil piton.
Descent: as "Pillar between chimneys"
R8. Pillar of Czech - overview - picture - picture - topoFirst ascent: J. Kotrey, Z Lukesh, 1981, 8 pitches, V+, A2, J.Rabba, NW face
Approach:
Descent: as "Pillar between chimneys"
R9. Beginner’s Route - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Terry Taylor, Edna Goury, 1976, 7 pitches, IV+, J.Rabba, NW face
Approach:
Up the left chimney (III to IV). At third pitch avoid overhand by right detour (IV+). After fifth pitch follow right gully and two more easy pitches to top.
Details of first few pitches:
Easy short pitch (II) to base of narrow crack. Easy short pitch following crack (II except for exit from crack - III+, left of chockstone). Walk to big boulder, climb behind it (III), then II or II+ for a few rope-length to more steep walls. Climb delicate pitch on front wall (IV+) to good stance in niche.Descent: as "Pillar between chimneys"
R10. Pillar between Chimneys * - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: K. Jerhot, L. Paleniek, 1981 , 8-11 pitches, IV+, J.Rabba, NW face
Description by Dmitry Rusakov and Tatiana Plazner (27/05/2004)
Approach: Locate the (first) small crack few meters right of and parallel to the large crack (the beginning of the "Beginners route").
Description: Starting from the base of this (first) small crack, there is conspicuous line of dark rocks, kind of half formed crack, going at about 30 degrees right of the (first) small crack. Visually, these two small cracks are forming a letter 'V'. This is where the route starts, on the right hand of 'V'. Do not confuse with another, much larger crack going right at about 70 degrees from about the same point (starting slightly below). Middle: follow the crack line up, aiming a little bit to the left of the top of a large pillar protruding from the mountain at about 1/2 of its height. Left of the top of pillar there is a distinguished dark vertical chimney. This is a crux 6th pitch. End: After the dark vertical crack follow up and left to end on the ridge (classical version - about 8-9 pitches total), or gently take to the right, aiming to the mountain top (11 pitches - our version).
Pitch 1: First 10 meters IV, exposed. Then easy III.
Pitch 2: Continue the crack at about grade III. Then climb it's vertical continuation (easy IV or III+), take left at the end. You'll see the rappelling station around big boulder.
Pitches 3 & 4: Follow the crack line up until you reach a small plateau just below and to the left (north) of the pillar. About III.
Pitch 5: Easy walk (but be cautious - there's space to fall on the left) to the base of the dark vertical crack. Another crack just continues behind the pillar. Probably it is possible to skip pitch 5 altogether, by making full rope pitches 3 and 4.
Pitch 6: Crux. Vertical, body width chimney with two small overhangs. About IV+ or V. Place protection, don't think twice and climb. Friends (medium & small) are recommended for faster protection placement.
Pitches 7-11: It's probably non-classical version, but our version - we have just followed the easiest path to the top, as it appeared to us.
Pitch 7: Follow the line up, and slightly to the right. Pitch ends under the huge stone. Grade IV-.
Pitch 8: Climb up, passing the huge stone from the left. (It seems also possible to climb the first part under the huge rock, and then take to the left). Grade IV ot IV+, about 20 meters. After you've passed the stone take the obvious walk right and a little bit climbing up, until the easy walk ends.
Pitch 9: Climb a crack up and a little bit to the left, until on the good place under a big rock (a little bit to the left of it). Grade III.
Pitch 10: Climb 10 meters around the rock to the top and then right (III) and walk to the right until the rope allows.
Pitch 11: It's almost the top. Climb the series of slabs (III), aiming left from the top. Finish on the ridge. Follow around the rock outcrops to the summit (south).
Descent: Follow the ridge south until the col. From the col, start descent to the right (to the same side as you came up). Keep to the left side of the gully, do not go down the first gully to the right, traverse one ridge and descent in the next (second) gully to the right. At the end of (second) gully, just before you get to some beduin routes, a short abseil of 5-7 meters may be required, to get around a HUGE stone in middle of gully. (We took the left side of second gully, it may be possible that in right side the descend is more comfortable). At the end a little scrambling (III) in the chimney to get down. Then follow the beduin routes to the village.
R11. Via dalla Fessura - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Giuseppe Gallizia, Pietro Lampertico, 1983, 5 pitches, V+, J.Rabba, NW face
Approach:
Follow the very evident (diagonal to right) fissure visible on large slabs at base of wall, straight below summit. At first follow chimney to right of large gully then chimney thins to become a fissure and curves to right. Left 1 piton and 1 nut.
Descent: abseil same route (pitons)R12. Or HaNer - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Mickey Hochstatter, Bruce Devens, 1978, 7 pitches, V, J.Rabba, NW face
Approach: Start in the third big crack (from left). Beneath in the wadi there is a boostan. The beginning section is white crack closed by chockstone.
First pitch (IV, V) hard and narrow, then walk 80m following gully. Crack (III+), then next pitch (V) till large ledge. Follow crack for 3 pitches (III, III+, IV+). Traverse left and up to summit ridge (IV) with 2 movies V, then III+. The route offers many variants with some obliged hard pitch.
Descent: as "Pillar between chimneys"R13. The Cracked Egg - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Victor Kaftal, Steve Gault, 1976, 12 pitches, IV, A1, J.Rabba, NW face
Approach:
12 pitches, III-IV + 2 short pitches AID climb (it is possible to avoid them - see "The silly route")
The route follows a system of slabs, cracks and open chimneys on the right hand part of the big NW face of the Rabba. The Cracked Egg is a conspicuous broken rock on the upper third of the wall not to be confused with a smaller and rounder rock at half height.
8 pitches till the cracked egg. Original route in the chimney on the right between egg and wall (IV, A1) (better climb on left C.E., free climb IV+). Then proceed right and reach ledge. Follow ledge till upper wall crossed by vertical crack (A1)(It is possible to follow the ledge for 100m and then walk behind the ridge into a gully (S) till the top), then 3 pitches to top.
Descent: as "Pillar between chimneys"R14. Bobbing belay - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Chanina Kali, Bob, Nir Yarkoni, 1984, 2 pitches, V+, 5.9, J.Rabba, NW face
Approach: The route is situated on a very prominent rock face above and left of the boostan, on the way to baale Abu Gifa.
Description: Start below diagonal roofed crack, 50m. left of shallow dihedral. 1st. pitch: Climb up this crack, exit right at point of fixed nut into short crack to half hanging belay. 2nd pitch: Traverse back into crack to easy sloping layback. (Possible to finish 1st pitch at top or bottom of layback crack or to start second pitch by down climbing and entering layback crack from below. On first ascent rope drag forced . The belay after 20m of climbing). From top of layback go up short right-handed crack, then make easy ascending traverse to the right (On 1st ascent, atop rope was thrown at this point, due to absence of protection). Top part of the climb is a beautiful friction slab, leading up and left to belay just below gully veering off to the left. One or two bolts would make this climb leadable all the way.
Descent: small gully to the left leading to larger gully. Cross this and walk off or rappel down.
R15. On Beyond Bob - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Chanina Kali, Shlomo Dormea, 1998, 300m, 9 pitches, 5.10, A0, J.Rabba, NW face
Approach: As Bobbing belay
Description: First pitch as "Bobbing Belay". After that right slabs one pitch. 3rd pitch - up hand-jam crack and slab.4th - up slab, off-width finger jam and slab. 5th - 3rd class slabs (more than rope length). 6th - crux pitch (50m), first diagonally up and right some meters, then up via one of two cracks (left one harder hand-jam and right one - finger-jam 5.10, A0). 7th - diagonally right and up. 8th - up crack half rope and turn right via another crack. After that slabs to top.
Descent:
R16. Sal’it Route - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Terry Taylor, Andrea Anati, Alex, 1977 , 4 pitches, IV+, J.Rabba Little Rabba, NE face
Approach:
Up fine chimney III culminating with easy overhand IV. Proceed on easy rock then climb the dyke to flared chimney (IV+), then slabs to top.
Descent: back down through gully rightR17. Steve’s Crack - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Steve Read, Moshe Blau, 1978, 8 pitches, V+, J.Rabba, NE face
Approach:
Start from a ficus bush (perhaps acacia) in the gully between Little Rabba and Middle Rabba. An easy angled lower section(150m) till a large terrace. Then a steep fine jam crack going straight up to the top of the crag (V+, 150m).
Note: The climb follows for 300m (8 pitches) the same crack. A lot of handjam especially in the upper part.
Descent: by abseil in main gully between Middle and Big Rabba.R18. Bli Khashmal - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Danny Wolfstein, Danny Fan, 1983, 4 pitches, IV+, 5.8, J.Rabba, NE face
Approach: The route goes up crack right of "Metzokei David". Start some 20m below top of gully between J.Rabba and Chupchik (towards the village).
Ascent right up face (good protection) to beginning of crack (40m, 5.7). Up crack/chimney(40m, 5.8+). Then up crack till roof(30m, 5.8+). Continue right in crack (10m, 5.8) till beginning of large crack in yellow (bad) rock. From here we abseiled back down due to the bad quality of the rock. (It is possible in 3rd pitch to move left thru ledge 15m to "Metzokei David" and then to top).
Descent:R19. Diedro degli Italiani - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Giuseppe Gallizia, Nir Yarkoni, 1984, 7 pitches, VI-, J.Rabba, NE corner
Approach:
Route follows the very evident diedre on the NE, and continues straight up to the summit.
Start in front of the Bedouin's lodges, at the lowest point of the crag. Generally a fissure climb with some parts of friction climb
Descent:R20. Shikaron Sinai - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Gli Nissan, Danny Wolfstein, 1982, 4 pitches, VI-, 5.10-, J.Rabba, NW face
Approach: The route follows the crack in the middle of the face, right of a dyke and left of another crack ("via del Desperazione").
A number of possible starts to route. We started on big ledge between this route and "Del Desperazione". 5m up layback, then right easily to start of crack. Then hard(5.10-) up crack to belay. Then 3 easier(5.7) pitches till end of crack. From here wind your way up on slabs to top.
Descent:R21. Via dalla Disperazione - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Giuseppe Gallizia, Ronny Karpel, 8 pitches, VII-, J.Rabba, NW face
Approach: The route follows the leftmost of the gullies on the NW face and is obvious throughout from the Bedouin hostel
Start at foot of gully below a chockstone. Climb thru small overhand (VI), traverse right to chimney and then to main overhand (crux, VII-). Continue 10m to stance. After that straight up and then thru various possibilities to top.
Descent as from Rabba corner or Guano Chimney
R22. Kaminfeger - overview - picture - picture - topoFirst ascent: Armin Rempfler, Fritz Roth, Alex, 1983, 6 pitches, VI, J.Rabba, E face
Approach:
Descent:
R23. Mickey’s Chimney - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Mickey Hochstatter, Dany Averbach, 1977, 3 pitches, IV+, J.Rabba
Approach: Semi detached pillar joined to J.Rabba just behind Chupchik, from the field school. The chimney starts 20m left of spring (grass, bushes etc)
Up crack (III) to wider beautiful chimney (IV+). Traverse right with good hand-holds just below chockstone (IV), then right of chockstone and left to same chimney , then to top. Top section of chimney can be avoided by easier cracked blocks on right. Classic chimney in the area!!!
Descent: Easy but loose descent by chimney to left side of the pillar.R24. Chimney of the Americans - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: David Gorney, Eran Seaman, 1977, 4 pitches, V, J.Rabba, Little Rabba
Approach:
Up obvious chimney at right end of crag. Easy at first. Past slab (V) then up to perfect belay spot. Continue up chimney by bridging, directly over chockstone, strenuous underclinges (V), then easy to top.
Variation from point where chimney steppes, go horizontally left on easy slab, right then left, past huge block then right into steep corner. Up this (V) to belay
Descent: through gully right as all routes on Little RabbaR25. HaKeshet - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Terry Taylor, Steve Gault, 1976, 4 pitches, IV, J.Rabba, Little Rabba
Approach: The keshet is a very obvious big overlapping corner that marks the wall of the little Rabba.
The start is left to the vertical of the cresent. Easy rocks to a diedre (IV) then left to a crack (III+) and through another crack (III) right avoiding the vertical of the corner. Easy traverse left with last delicate move at the end into the corner . Follow it for one pitch (III). Following the crack in the cresent traverse right around the corner and left (III+), climb on roof of corner (III) and easy cracks and slabs to the top
Descent:R26. The Easy Keshet - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Bruce Devens, Victor Kaftal, 1977, 4 pitches, IV, J.Rabba, Little Rabba
Approach:
Start marked diedre/chimney 30m right of "HaKeshet" IV+ at top of pitch. Then follow weak ??? for 3 pitches up to top. II and III. Lot of different easy choices. After the first diedre it is possible to traverse left to join the "HaKeshet" route.
Descent:R27. The Ostrich Head - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Terry Taylor, Danny Edelstein, 1978, 2 pitches, V+, J.Rabba, Little Rabba
Approach: The route is a characteristic 70m semi-detached pillar on the left half of the little Rabba.
Start at the bottom of a semi-detached boulder (Egyptian women's head) and climb around it to the left (IV), traverse left to the chimney (III), up 10m facing the valley (V-), then 15m deep ??? inside the chimney till a small ledge (IV). Traverse right on the ledge out of the chimney (exposed for 10m) till a big flake. Climb the crack between flake and wall (crux V+), then diagonally up to top of ostrich head.
Descent: - abseilsR28. Egyptian Mummy - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Steve Read, Dany Wolfstein, 1978-83, 4 pitches, VI, A1, J.Rabba, Little Rabba
Approach:
Start in a groove (III) move left into a flared chimney(5m grade VI), up a crack (V-IV) for about 15m to a small stance. Up 15m a diedre with hidden crack (V+) and into jam crack of IV+. Exit to the top of the pillar (V+). Continue up right sloping jam crack on right side on top of pillar till ledge below roof(30m, V+). Up thru overhand (VI-, A1, possible easier since big flake broke off) and belay in crack above overhand. Then left up crack 20m on flared crack to top (40m, V).
Descent: - to left...R29. Me Too - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Steve Read, Danny Wolfstein, 1978, 6 pitches, V+, A1, J.Rabba, Little Rabba
Approach: The route takes righter groove in big corner at left side of Little Rabba, (to right of Egyptian Mummy).
1st pitch: off width crack 4+, then lasso with chock (A1) and continue to belay (35m).
2nd pitch: foot traverse to left twin cracks (IV) up gully (IV) - 40m.
3rd pitch: Continue up gully 10m (3) to belay.
4th pitch: Traverse right to chimney and thru chockstone (IV+), traverse down 5m and up thin crack with chock for aid (V+, A1) to stance (30m).
Continue 2 pitches (3+) up chimney to top.
Descent to left
Descent:R30. Bon Voyage - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Danny Wolfstein, Giuseppe Gallizia, 1984, 2 pitches, 5.6, IV, J.Rabba
Approach:
Descent:
R31. Decisive John (direct variation of Metzokey David)- overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: S. Amley, J. Mothersele, 1987, 5 pitches, VII, A0, J.Rabba
Description: From 3rd station of "Metzokey David" continue direct up crack and over bulging section (6+), continue up vague crack until crag steppes, bridge up corner (crux,7, A0). Protection HB2 on blade peg. Pull over bulging section and exit left at top of crack to ledge(40m). Continue up easier crack above to leftward chimney - climb this and exit right to easy ground (30m, 6). Then easy to top.
Descent:
R32. HaMefaqeah - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Victor Kaftal, Baruch Ilau, 1976 , 3 pitches, IV, J.Rabba, HaChupchik
Approach:
Follow slabs and a crack till chimney dividing N wall of the chupchik. 3-4 pitches III, IV. Descent to the col between chupchik and Rabba
Descent:R33. Eli’s Virus - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Victor Kaftal, Elisheva Kaftal, 1977 , 5 pitches, III+, J.Rabba, HaChupchik
Approach:
The route follows a crack from above the military camp. Up 2/3 pitches. Easy scrambling to reach the ??? wall and up to a ledge. 5m a diedre (V), exposed traverse move left (V, crux) up till a cave (belay). Descent to the col between chupchik and Rabba
Descent:First ascent: Victor Kaftal, Doggy Davidovitch, 1978 , 15 pitches(???), III-IV, J.Rabba
Start at the bottom of a white crack closed 20m, up by a small chockstone in the right half of the wall. Instead of the crack take a diedre 5m on the right and then up till slabs. Follow then to the right and follow chimneys, gullies, slabs always to right. Reach the cracked egg. Climb the left face (left of C.E.) and then up till a ledge. Follow the ledge right till corner and into gully (S to N)
R35. The Safta Rabba route - overview - picture - picture - topo
First ascent: Ofer Blutrich, Oren Nugradi, 2004 , 9 pitches, 6b+, J.Rabba, NE face
Descent: From end of the route traverse right (to West) some 100-120m to start of abceil points via dyke (7 abceils).
